Just leaving Aktobe after 2 nights. Spent the whole of yesterday rebuilding the sump guard with a man who was possibly the richest Kazak in Aktobe and definitely the nicest. He also had a mercedes slr and a hummer which he gave us a drive in - going around Kazakhstan in a hummer is a dream fulfilled! He also gave us free water and use of his mechanic for free as well as taking us to a good cheap hotel and restaurant for meals. But now we push on through the better north Kazak roads to Astana.